Catalan sparkling wines are experiencing a special effervescence. This dynamic sector continues to focus on products with longer aging and higher value, emphasizing native grape varieties (primarily based on xarel·lo). In addition to the traditional method, sparkling wines made using the ancestral method are gaining traction, with a single alcoholic fermentation completed in the bottle, as well as natural wines. Moreover, there is a growing trend of effervescent wines stemming from organic and biodynamic agriculture, along with those born in special vineyards, some even recovered from oblivion.
Cellars of longer aging showed the best commercial performance in 2023, especially in the domestic market. Rosé cavas also saw an increase in sales, reaching 23.5 million bottles. However, the category that stood out the most was organic cavas, with 32.3 million bottles sold, almost 25% more than in 2022. By 2025, all premium aging cavas will be 100% organic.
Tomás Ucha: “Every time more interesting things are done with a very high level”
Josep Roca, sommelier and co-owner of El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, sees that “in a moment of successful effervescence, beyond the established settlement of traditional grapes and long aging in brut nature, perhaps the trend of short-lived and joyous ancestral sparklings may allow a path to explore in other more serious sparkling wines, from the human dimension, the best selection of vineyards, and with the fine bubble of long-lasting aging.”
Joan Carles Ibáñez, head waiter and sommelier at the Lasarte restaurant in Barcelona, states that “the world of Catalan sparkling wines has taken a step forward in recent times in terms of quality, although there is still much to be done in exporting the best qualities.” Ibáñez highlights the focus on single vineyard sparkling wines and noble varieties, even if they are foreign, not just xarel·lo, macabeo, and parellada. He also emphasizes their gastronomic versatility due to their lightness and lower alcohol content, stating that “we must stop feeling inferior to many champagnes that do not reach the same level”. However, he believes it is necessary to increase the quality of high-volume cavas.
On the other hand, José Martínez, sommelier and maître at the Barcelona restaurant Via Veneto, also sees a clear trend towards long aging processes and brut nature products. He adds that “customers are opting for sparkling wines that are more wine-like and have years of aging, but that still maintain freshness.” Martínez believes that “consumers are now looking for sparkling wines with fine bubbles, which are more gastronomic products.”
Also, Tomás Ucha, head sommelier at the Madrid restaurant DiverXO, acknowledges that “more and more interesting things are being done with a very high standard regarding quality Catalan sparkling wines.” And he goes as far as to affirm that “customers are no longer afraid to order cava, which they used to associate only with a cheap product.”
Cava Designation of Origin harvest
At Paco Roncero restaurant in the Casino de Madrid, with 80% of foreign clientele, “more and more cavas and corpinnats are being consumed every day,” says their sommelier, María José Huertas. She points out that at their price level, there is not the same quality in champagnes, and that the current trend is towards products with higher aging and quality.
Also sommelier Fernando Moret, director of the Ambivium restaurant in Peñafiel, believes that the future of the best sparklings lies in “the search for a fine and delicate bubble that provides greater complexity.” Moret also confesses his preference for long-aged sparklings “with well-managed oxidations.” And the head sommelier of Azurmendi in Larrabetzu, Aitor Maztegi, states that “nowadays sparkling wines with very low sugar levels are trending, as well as those produced in regions like La Rioja, Galicia, and the Basque Country.”
L’Assemblatge de Mestres 2013-2014-2016
Polyhedral DO Cava Brut Nature Gran Reserva with three vintages that displays fresh white flowers and fruit, with hints of lemon yogurt and yeast. Elegant complexity and creaminess with memories of marine iodine and a saline touch in a more modern Mestres. It is dry, subtle, delicate, and flavorful.
Price: €56
Parató Reserva Brut Nature 2021
Freshness and creaminess in an organic cava that has revamped its image. With over 24 months of aging. Made with the varieties xarel•lo, macabeo, parellada, and chardonnay. It is dry and rounded, offering notes of white fruit (apple) and hints reminiscent of lemon yogurt.
Price: €12.60
Torelló ANL/21
The brothers Paco and Toni de la Rosa Torelló have presented their first ancestral sparkling wine, which is also the first of Corpinnat. An organic Brut Nature made with 73% xarel·lo and macabeo grapes. It features white fruit (apple) and citrus notes. Dry, light, refreshing, and with a prominent effervescence.
Price: €25.50
Col·lecció Privada Gran Reserva 2020 by Cavas Hill
Organic sparkling wine with over 36 months of aging made from xarel·lo and parellada grapes. Golden in color, it stands out for its balance between volume, creaminess, and acidity. With notes of ripe fruit (apple and dried apricots) and hints of nuts and pastries reminiscent of yeast.
Price: €25
Aliances La Cuvée 2021 by Gramona
Extra Brut Corpinnat with 27 months of aging that replaces La Cuvée. Created in homage to the biodynamic association Aliances per la Terra. Made with xarel-lo (63%), macabeo (32%), and parellada. It showcases white fruit (apple) with hints of citrus and raw almond. Refreshing, light, and still young.
Price: €17.50
Bombonetta Gran Reserva 2020 by Jaume Giró i Giró
Cava Brut Gran Reserva and organic that pays homage to the 350 demijohns in which Ramon Giró Mata, the grandfather of the current owner, used to make sun and serena wine. Now it has a new presentation. Medium-bodied with hints of spring stone fruit and nuts.
Price: €35
Microstories 9 from 2013 by Maria Rigol Ord
Cava Brut Nature Gran Reserva organic made with xarel·lo, macabeo, and pinot noir. A limited edition of 1,342 bottles aged on lees for 126 months. White, citrus, and dry fruit notes with a hint of honey. Balance and elegance in a unique cava.
Price: €46.55
Only Vida Rosé Reserva 2021 by Vallformosa
The official Cava of the Tomorrowland music festival now releases a pink version. Made with pinot noir and aged for a minimum of 18 months in stacks. With a pale pink color, it stands out for its notes of flowers and red fruits. It is a round, young, and slightly sweet Brut.
Price: €32.50
Tres Naus Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2017 by Domenio
First Gran Reserva cava (aged for 72 months) from this cooperative group in Sant Jaume dels Domenys. Made with 50% xarel-lo, 20% macabeo, and parellada. Shy on the nose, with hints of baked apple, peach, toasted bread, and honey. It is long with a saline finish.
Price: €18
Gran Claustro Gran Reserva 2021 by Perelada
DO Cava Brut Nature made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir varieties. It is only produced in the best vintages, and it now sports a new label. It expresses notes reminiscent of both white and red fruit. Creamy with a fine carbonation.
Price: €17.50
Blancher Reserva Brut Nature 2019
Special Christmas edition with Retrostudio design. Made with xarel·lo, macabeo, and parellada grapes. A cava that could be considered a Gran Reserva, standing out for its volume and varietal character. It displays notes of white fruit, ripe peach, and nuts with well-integrated carbonation.
Price: €23
Vinya les Pedres 2022 by Can Lleó de Vilanoveta
Only 1,550 bottles available of this first vintage of an organic and sulfite-free Clàssic Penedès (DO Penedès). Unclarified and unfiltered. Varietal purity (with notes of apple and reminders of yeast). It is an ancestral sparkling wine made from Macabeo, dry and refreshing.
Price: €20
