With one of the best laurel forests in Europe, and an almost untouched nature, La Gomera is a box of surprises for hikers, lovers of the sea and marine life, and for those who want to escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. It is a world biosphere reserve, and a double UNESCO World Heritage site. If La Gomera didn't exist, we would have to invent it.
In the lesser-known La Gomera, there have been no volcanic eruptions in the past two million years, so the round and small island slides peacefully from its highest point at 1,500 meters, the Alto de Garajonay, down to the Atlantic. An ocean guards an extraordinary marine fauna and sketches magnificent urban beaches with very fine black sand and secluded pristine coves scattered throughout the island.
Garajonay National Park is a survivor of the subtropical forests that millions of years ago covered almost all of Europe
To savor without hurrying
The 400 kilometers of volcanic origin of La Gomera are the least known in the Canary archipelago, and its habitat is one of the best preserved on the planet, perhaps because until a couple of decades ago the island could only be reached by boat. It is so genuine that UNESCO has declared it a World Biosphere Reserve, a heritage for which more than 60 trails and cycling routes can be explored, all well signposted and amidst fabulous landscapes.
La Gomera is authentic, it's the place where it seems like time stopped centuries ago. On the island, every road invites you to stop and enjoy its spectacular cliffs, rock formations, ravines, fertile valleys, trails, mists, and viewpoints with impossible panoramic views.
The Gran Rey Valley is a natural haven surrounded by untouched waters
San Sebastián de La Gomera, the capital
San Sebastián de la Gomera is full of surprises and a lot of history, because from here Columbus set sail with his sailors towards one of the greatest adventures of the world. Also, in San Sebastián, you have to wander through its old town because it is a gem with colorful houses, open wooden balconies, and traditional architecture courtyards.
In the capital, you must visit the Archaeological Museum to learn about how the first settlers arrived, what their way of life was like, their beliefs, and how they used natural resources to survive.
Colón docked to resupply on the island and departed from San Sebastián de La Gomera towards the New World
You should also visit the Church of the Assumption and the house where Columbus stayed, which is now the Columbus House Museum. And, of course, the Water House, also known as the Customs House, one of the most important architectural monuments on the island because it seems that Columbus stocked up on water before his great journey.
According to some theories, Columbus would have docked at the port of San Sebastián de La Gomera to stock up on water and supplies before heading towards the New World. It is believed that water was stored in large clay jars at the Casa de La Aguada, and it is presumed that Columbus would have filled his barrels from those jars before the great journey.
The Tower of the Count is the only medieval building remaining in La Gomera
And to rest from the walk around San Sebastián, you have to get close to the beach in front of which stands the Tower of the Count. In this 15th-century fortress, the feudal powers took refuge during the Gomeran rebellion. At that time, next to the tower there were other buildings, but today, the Tower of the Count, which is a historical and artistic monument, is the only building of the whole complex that remains standing.
Garajonay, the crown jewel
Garajonay is a fantastic relic that houses the last great stand of laurisilva. In 1981, it was declared a national park, a Natura 2000 site as an area of special conservation, and a special protection area for birds. In 1986, UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site, so it can be said to be the crown jewel of La Gomera.
Garajonay is a survivor of the subtropical forests that millions of years ago covered almost all of Europe
And the truth is that Garajonay is a wonder of nature, a survivor of the subtropical forests that millions of years ago covered almost all of Europe. It is a living fossil from the Tertiary era that over time has created a large habitat, a forest ecosystem with a dense laurel forest.
It has 4,000 hectares full of ferns, mosses, and lichens that transport you almost to the Jurassic period. With a special and unique magnetism, it is an untouched forest shrouded in mist, with large and prehistoric trees, and with such gentle humidity and temperature that exploring it becomes a delight.
About Garajonay National Park hovers its great legend of love. Listening to it along its paths is very moving
The most unique aspect of Garajonay is that it produces much more water than it consumes, as the trade winds, when they hit the mountains, cool down and condense their moisture on the vegetation. This is known as horizontal rain, which provides about 1,000 liters per square meter per year in La Gomera. It is a protected area that is key because it always recharges its aquifer, and due to its many streams with permanent water flow.
The legend of love soars over the national park, which tells the story of the Gomera princess Gara falling in love with the handsome Jonay, a young Guanche who came from Tenerife. As the parents of Princess Gara opposed this love, the couple fled to the highest peak of the island, and when cornered by their pursuers, they embraced and impaled themselves with a spear to die together. And because of this impossible love, the mountain was named Garajonay.
A wide range of landscapes
Each of the landscapes has its own traditions
Believe it or not, the landscapes and hues of the island are constantly changing between volcanic reddish tones and the impossible greens of its valleys.
Among the lush green of this land stands out the town of Hermigua, a green carpet surrounded by two slopes covered with crops. So, there is nothing better than spending time at the Los Telares ethnographic park, a magical corner among palm trees, banana plants, mango trees, papaya trees, avocado trees, and aloe vera. But above all, there are the guarapera palm trees from which the sap of palm honey is obtained, a true superfood. And it is also worth stopping at El Pescante, an old pier from 1900 through which all the products produced or bought from abroad by La Gomera entered and exited.
The greenery of the Hermigua valley, under the rocks of Pedro and Petra, is a great surprise on this volcanic island
Heading north, you reach Agulo, a village that many consider to be the most beautiful on the island. And the truth is that it is a delight of narrow, cobblestone streets, and colorful balconies. In Agulo, you must visit the Abrante viewpoint, suspended in the air at over 400 meters high above its small valley that ends at the Atlantic Ocean.
The viewpoint has a seven-meter-long cantilever, and its floor and walls are made of glass, so walking through it is like strolling through the sky, making it only suitable for the bravest. It is so beautiful that it is on the list of the most spectacular viewpoints in the world, from where you can observe the ocean in all its fullness, and where you can almost touch the island of Tenerife and its Teide.
The Abrante viewpoint, in the town of Agulo, is only suitable for the bravest
Another charming place is Chipude and its natural monument of La Fortaleza, which in pre-Hispanic times was a sacred site for the ancient Gomerans and used for rituals. It has been confirmed through oral tradition, written documentation, and especially through archaeology, that this volcanic massif held symbolic significance for the natives from prehistoric times to the present day.
And less than two kilometers from Chipude, you reach the small town of El Cercado, where women continue to work the valuable Gomeran pottery with an ancient technique that is only preserved on the island. These women, known as the potters, hand mold without the use of a pottery wheel and fire their pieces without a kiln, directly over an open flame. It is a skill that has been passed down from mothers to daughters since time immemorial. So, to see them work, one must go to the Las Loceras Interpretation Center, where, in addition to learning about their history, unique pieces can be purchased at their lively market.
Gran Rey Valley, the most beautiful sunset in Europe
The beaches of Valle Gran Rey Valley in La Gomera offer extraordinary sunsets.
The crystal-clear water of Gran Rey Valley and its lavish nature make it a gem for hiking, canyoning, mountain biking, paragliding, kayaking, and diving. The upper part of Gran Rey Valley is surrounded by the cliffs of Tegerguenche and Mérica, where the giant lizard of La Gomera lives, preceding one of the lushest palm groves in the world. This incredible landscape must be enjoyed from the Palmarejo viewpoint, a creation by the brilliant César Manrique.
And its beaches, with extremely fine black sand and water at an ideal temperature, offer an unexpected gift at sunset because their sunsets are some of the most beautiful in Europe. There is no better gift than seeing them from La Calera beach, or in the area of La Puntilla next to the statue of Hautacuperche, the famous indigenous warrior who rebelled against the Castilians.
Navigate among loggerhead turtles, pilot whales, and dolphins
Sailing among cetaceans almost skimming the Atlantic is an unforgettable experience
In the waters of La Gomera, there are around thirty different species of cetaceans, making it a privileged spot for whale watching. In the marine strip between Santiago beach and Valle Gran Rey, there are pilot whales that are very loyal to these waters, making it very easy and exciting to spot them. They are impressive creatures, as the males can grow up to five meters long and weigh up to 1,500 kilos.
It is also possible to see dolphins, loggerhead turtles, and even sperm whales. Undoubtedly, sailing among cetaceans almost at sea level in La Gomera is an experience that must be lived, at least, once in a lifetime.
The Gomeran whistle language is a UNESCO World Heritage
Recommendations
Ancestral Traditions. Aside from being a World Biosphere Reserve, UNESCO has also declared the silbo gomero as a World Heritage. This unique form of communication was developed by the early settlers, the brave Berber tribes of Ghomara, who settled here after being expelled from North Africa by the Romans. The silbo gomero is a one-of-a-kind communication system in the world and was used by the islanders for centuries to communicate in a land where they were isolated by deep ravines. Fortunately, today it is part of the school curriculum, the best way to preserve and appreciate it. Another tradition that emerged to overcome these abysses is the Astia, a sort of wooden pole with a metal end that they used to support themselves to jump and overcome the steep slopes. This ancient means of transportation is on the rise as a nature and leisure activity, in the form of routes and courses now known as “the shepherd's leap.”
Where to eat
El Puchero de Doña Efigenia. In Las Hayas, at a humble eatery that has become a gastronomic reference, they serve the stew with gofio dumpling that has conquered the palate of none other than Angela Merkel. Doña Efigenia's Place dates back to the 1940s when they started serving traditional dishes with local produce and no meat. Don't miss their watercress stew and lemonade. Furthermore, it's a luxury to listen to the stories of Doña Efigenia, who still comes out to greet the diners to this day.
El Paraíso del Mar. In Valle Gran Rey, this beachfront spot offers the finest selection of fresh fish. Their tuna croquettes made according to a family recipe and their fish, octopus, or tuna aguachile are incredible.
Los Telares Restaurant Terrace. In Hermigua, beneath the Pedro and Petra rocks, you can enjoy one of the most characteristic gastronomic delights, almogrote. Made with cured goat cheese and spicy mojo sauce, it originates from the island's ancient history. All of their salads are a treat, and their vegetarian dishes are top-notch.
Where to sleep
La Gomera Parador. This magnificent accommodation blends in with nature and has a garden that is a botanical jewel, where it is a privilege to enjoy peace and silence among palm trees and the ocean.
Bancal Hotel & Spa. Just 10 minutes from San Sebastián de La Gomera and overlooking the neighboring Teide, it has been built on an abandoned building known as “el mamotreto.” It is a true luxury that prides itself on sustainability and a quiet way of life.
How to get there
BINTER. Offers flights to La Gomera from Gran Canaria and Tenerife. It is also possible to arrive by boat with Fred Olsen and Naviera Armas.