Is an air fryer worth it? Some clues about a trendy household appliance in Spain

With air fryers, it's like with gin and tonic: everyone thought they would go out of style, but there they are. It doesn't matter that they don't actually fry and are simply small convection ovens, the data supports that it is the trendy small appliance of the moment and there is a good chance it will appear on this Christmas gift list. But are they worth it or just a way to take up half of your kitchen counter? Can they be used for almost everything, or will they end up gathering dust after the initial enthusiasm wanes? For a few months, we have used three very different models to try to find answers to these questions.

In fact, there is little doubt about its popularity. According to data from AECOC (Association of Manufacturers and Distributors), sales surged by more than 150% last year. This explains the huge range of options available, with a wide variety of brands, designs, and prices that can make choosing a specific model feel like navigating a maze. They all look alike and do the same or similar things, but there are many variants.

The first and often the only question to ask is whether it will be used. And here, the experts' opinion is not very helpful because, as is often the case with any appliance, personal preferences or what is usually cooked at home will determine whether an air fryer deserves a place in our home.

Similarly to how some individuals can organize a full menu relying solely on a microwave, while other families thrive without it, one of these fryers may end up being relegated to frying potatoes once a month or become the most versatile tool in the household.

Because beyond brands, models, prices, or designs, the key is its use and what we can do with it. And the answer is relatively simple: the same as in a convection oven, that is, with a fan. Comparing it to this appliance and not to a conventional oil fryer is basic to avoid disappointments and to be able to understand its potential.

Any of these air fryers being smaller than an oven doesn't require much explanation. The interesting part lies in their advantages. “Saves up to 53% of energy and 40% cooking time,” promises Panasonic when talking about their NF-CC600 model, one of the models that have been in our kitchen for a few weeks.

It costs less, in every way, than turning on the oven and they are noticeably faster. That is undoubtedly the great advantage of these appliances, which are particularly effective when frying (actually baking, seeking crispy results), vegetables, some chicken wings, getting a sandwich with completely melted cheese in minutes, or reheating pizza slices and getting them perfect.

As dozens of videos and recipes insist on repeating, it serves for much more. In fact, it can even be used to cook an egg, although we don't quite see the point of this type of preparation in such a device. Moreover, all models share functions that basically include simulating frying, conventional baking, dehydrating, or cooking at low temperatures...

Can we roast a chicken? If it fits, sure. But it will probably be faster and turn out better if you prepare thighs or wings separately. And what about the usual croquettes or fried foods? As everyone knows by now, you always need to sprinkle with a little oil, and the result will be more like baked croquettes or turnovers than deep-fried food. They're good, but it's not the same.

Clarified and remembered these points, the choice of the model should be based on four pillars: budget, size, design, and unique features. The aforementioned Panasonic NF-CC600, for example, costs around 160 euros, has a capacity of 6 liters, and boasts one of the best designs and finishes on the market.

It takes up little space for its capacity and has a couple of very good ideas: interior light and a transparent window that allows you to see the cooking process without having to open it. Yes, indeed, like traditional ovens. Another unique detail is the small water tank it incorporates, which, using technology inherited from the brand's ovens, allows you to add steam during cooking to prevent some foods from drying out.

For those looking for more capacity, the Ninja brand plays with a very nice idea: fryers with two independent compartments that can be arranged horizontally or vertically, adding up to a capacity of up to 9.5 liters.

We have tested the Ninja Double Stack SL300EU 7.6-liter air fryer, and although we were somewhat skeptical about the promise of being able to cook four different foods at once, the truth is that it is possible thanks to a clever system of raised grilling racks in each compartment. This means that in each drawer, you can cook something at the base and another dish on this metal rack, which, in addition, will achieve a particularly crispy result.

It is fast, versatile, with many options to scare separately or synchronize both trays, and although there is room for improvement in the finishes and control systems for its price (around $230 official price without discounts), it is perfect for families who use it a lot and to take advantage of vertical space in the kitchen.

Is there something simpler and more economical? The Xiaomi Smart Air Fryer, 3.5 liters, is one of the most sought-after models of the year. It's easy to understand why: compact, visually appealing, available for less than 100 euros, and with a user-friendly system that can also be controlled through a mobile app. Ideal for the indecisive.

The health argument that was initially key to the popularity of air fryers seems to have lost its appeal lately. In their favor, however, has been the skyrocketing price of oils, which now encourages baking instead of deep frying not for health reasons, but for economic ones.

Although it is evident that cooking with a few drops of fat is healthier than traditional frying with oil, there has been a lot of talk lately about acrylamides, a compound that develops when cooking food at high temperatures and is often noted for its potential carcinogenic properties.

There are no conclusive studies linking these devices to the formation of acrylamides with normal use, although, logically, if we toast and burn a food, the risk is there. In fact, what all studies clearly point out is that the chances of forming these compounds are much lower compared to conventional frying.

Anyway, the most interesting point when talking about air fryers and health has nothing to do with the technology or cooking method, but with menu choices and how this appliance can become a booster for pre-cooked products that didn't used to be brought home.

“The air fryer can be a Trojan horse for allowing many foods that we are not interested in at all to enter,” commented Javier Morallón, a biology professor and expert in food technology, in an article published by RAC1 about these devices. And we confess that, during the tests conducted, something like that did happen. It's not that nuggets and croquettes have become our daily diet, but their presence has led us to prepare and eat French fries when it was something that rarely happened before."

One point to keep in mind in case a cauliflower appears under the tree this holiday season. In any case, the good news is that seasoned cauliflower drizzled with a few drops of oil is delicious in less than 10 minutes.