“I was walking through the world, following terrain, jumping over streams and ravines, when one day I saw a land where the sun shone brighter, the sky was bluer, the sea was bluer too, the houses were white and snowless, and everything was green and flowery, so I made a stop.” This is how the writer Santiago Rusiñol discovered Sitges on an autumn day in 1891. It may seem like a long time ago, but it is still very much present in this coastal town south of Barcelona.
The shadow of Rusiñol still envelops Sitges in an innovative cultural atmosphere. The multifaceted Catalan creator arrived here in his thirties, eager to find a space to gather his friends, stir up the art of his time, and let creativity flow. And he certainly succeeded.
The Museum of Cau Ferrat is the house where Santiago Rusiñol lived
Throughout the years, he organized his famous “modernist parties” with poetry recitals, art exhibitions, or opera performances. He attracted a countless number of friends, with whom he exchanged works. Many of those treasures are still there, at the Museum of Cau Ferrat, which is the house where Rusiñol lived and where his works are exhibited alongside those of his close friend Ramon Casas, as well as Picasso, Pablo Gargallo, and Ignacio Zuloaga. In addition to a couple of paintings by El Greco, the painter who fascinated the modern and modernist Rusiñol the most.
That creative effervescence has not only left memories and an interesting museum. The imprint of the transition from the 19th to the 20th century is also evident in the modernist style that sprinkles the old town. Narrow streets where large buildings appear thanks to the fortunes of the Indianos like the beautiful Can Carreras or the iconic house of Bartomeu Carbonell i Mussons in Cap de la Vila square.
There are plenty of galleries, some focused on Catalan art such as Àgora 3 and others with a more international tone like OOA Gallery
The Town Hall building is also inspired by modernist architecture. Just like the Prado theater or the Mercat Vell, designed by Gaietà Buigas, the same architect who designed the Columbus monument at the end of Barcelona's Rambla. Today, both the theater and the market are two cultural landmarks, two pillars of the creative energy that has been present in Sitges since the time of Rusiñol.
The rooms of the old market now host cutting-edge art exhibitions. And on one side is the headquarters of the Stämpfli Foundation, named after the Swiss artist Peter Stämpfli, who has been settled in Sitges for decades. One of the many creators based here since the late 19th century. This has led to an abundance of galleries in the 21st century, some focusing on Catalan art such as Àgora 3, and others with a more international tone like OOA Gallery. Therefore, a stroll through Sitges is always inspiring. Even more so in the off-season, without the summer crowds.
A comparsa from the Sitges Carnival, one of the most popular in Spain
Maybe it's because of its proximity to Barcelona, its creative energy, or its longstanding status as a global LGBTQ meeting point, but the fact is that unlike other coastal tourist spots, Sitges doesn't close up shop when beach days end. In fact, it might just be the best time to visit Sitges. After all, Rusiñol himself was fascinated by it in the fall.
To begin with, events of great interest and for all tastes are celebrated. Once the summer heat has passed, the Sitges Film Festival takes place, a fantastic cinema event. Or, the carnivals are experienced as a grand celebration. And at the beginning of spring, the long caravan of the International Vintage Car Rally arrives punctually.
Vintage car rally Barcelona-Sitges
The events agenda in Sitges has continued to grow since the pioneering modernist parties. And if by any chance there is nothing scheduled, just relax and enjoy the Sitges attractions without stress. One of them is to have your credit card handy to go shopping on San Francisco, Mayor, or Parellades streets and stay up to date with the latest fashion in clothing, shoes, and accessories.
If evening falls, the must-visit stroll is along Marquès de Montroig street, looking for a table among the terraces to enjoy the atmosphere. But if you don't feel like it or can't find a spot, the option is to continue until the end and reach the promenade. There, the best postcard of Sitges appears, with the view of Fragata Beach against the backdrop of the church of Sant Bartomeu and Santa Tecla. The image acts like a magnet, whether it's day or night. No one can resist walking next to the beach to the Baluard square and from there climb the steps to the temple.
Sitges has a good number of historic buildings
In summer, the constant crowd prevents you from enjoying that space and the views of the Mediterranean. However, outside the high season, everything is more intimate. It is then that the name of the square behind the church becomes clear. It is the Racó de la Calma, a place that smells of history and good taste. This is where Miquel Utrillo conceived the Palau de Maricel between 1910 and 1918. A project for which budget constraints were non-existent, as it was the grandiose whim of the American industrialist Charles Deering. He arrived here to meet Santiago Rusiñol in person and ended up madly in love with Sitges. Another one!
The Museum of Cau Ferrat
Santiago Rusiñol passed away in 1931, far from Sitges, but in his will, he expressed his affection for his adopted town by bequeathing his house-workshop to the local community. However, he made it clear that the unity of that collection of art, craftsmanship, and books he had gathered throughout most of his life should be respected. This was the seed of the current Cau Ferrat Museum. A unique and eclectic collection, where modern sculptures by Manolo Hugué or Gargallo coexist with impressionist paintings by Darío de Regoyos, the darkness of Zuologa, or the works of a certain Pablo Ruiz, who had not yet signed as Picasso. All of this mixed with archaeological remains, ceramics, wrought iron, furniture, and even ancient paintings. A truly eclectic and entertaining ensemble. The perfect embodiment of the diverse interests that its creator harbored.