In a world where vegetable cuisine continues to gain ground, there are those who are not satisfied with just getting the most out of vegetables. This is the case of chef Máximo Cabrera, who after studying biology - specializing in metabolic processes related to nutrition - decided to apply the knowledge gained to his culinary creations with the intention of demonstrating that plant-based food can be much more than just a vegan or vegetarian alternative.
A pioneer on this subject in his native Argentina – “the country of meat. I don't come from a Buddhist temple,” he says – and creator of one of the first botanical restaurants in Buenos Aires; this self-taught cook, researcher, and musician has just landed in Barcelona with Fronda Pasaje (20 Banys Vells), where he offers a proposal that focuses on understanding how food affects our body and the environment, combining innovative techniques and a deeply sensory approach. “People often associate plant-based cuisine with simple or monotonous dishes. My goal is to show that we can do much more with vegetable ingredients,” he says.
Naan bread with dukkah and extra virgin olive oil
Watermelon tiradito with dairy-fermented tomatoes
He achieves this with some of the creations offered at his restaurant, both à la carte and in a tasting menu format (five courses and a dessert for 50 euros). Among them stand out the tempeh foie gras, which is far from boring; a watermelon and lacto-fermented tomato tiradito that is just as impressive as the fish version, or a lion's mane mushroom (a probiotic-rich fungus, still relatively unknown) with chimichurri that almost feels like meat in the mouth.
What makes Cabrera's proposal unique is his tireless pursuit of complex and balanced flavors using plant-based products. “My scientific experience has allowed me to develop techniques that maximize the flavor and texture of these foods,” says the chef, who not only focuses on creating dishes but also on pushing the boundaries of what we understand as vegetarian cuisine by collaborating with startups to improve the future of our food or leading innovative projects, such as creating seasonings with adaptogenic mushrooms for Orgánica Superfood and fermented products based on sprouts for Brot dor.
What makes Crabera's proposal unique is its relentless pursuit of complex and balanced flavors using plant-based products
In your kitchen, ingredients like seaweed, seeds, and legumes are transformed into sophisticated dishes, full of nuances and textures, that defy conventions. “I try to ensure that all ingredients come from environmentally friendly crops, using less water and generating fewer CO2 emissions,” explains this quirky chef-biologist, who also develops recipes for elite athletes or mountaineers, who need a completely different type of diet when they are at the top of a mountain. “There, you don't feel hungry, so you have to come up with delicious meals packed with nutrients that make you want to eat,” he says.
Tempeh foie gras
Koji flan
Cabrera's passion for plant-based cuisine is not only reflected in his dishes, but also in his pedagogical work. At his cooking school, Crudo, which opened its doors in Buenos Aires in 2015 and is about to land in Barcelona, he not only teaches recipes but a philosophy that invites participants to reflect on food and its relationship with sustainability. “Cooking can be a vehicle for change. When we understand how food affects our health and the environment, we change the way we cook, eat, and think,” the chef concludes.
Fronda Pasaje
ADDRESS
20 Banys Vells, Ciutat Vella, 08003 Barcelona
34 934 17 21 49