There are place names that are absolutely descriptive of where a town or city is located. And others where you have to delve into the labyrinth of etymology to find out. In the Asturian village of Cuevas del Agua, there is literalness. To enter the urban area, you have to go into a rocky cavity.
This village – with just over fifty permanent residents – belongs to the council of Ribadesella, and has a road that enters a limestone cave carved by the water of the river Sella over millions of years. The route is 300 meters long and asphalt covers it, as it is the only motorized access to the locality. However, because the dome is full of spectacular formations (stalactites, stalagmites, and columns), there is a pedestrian passage enabled. Most visitors prefer to walk this short stretch to enjoy the uniqueness of the place. They call it The Cuevona.
Water Caves
To penetrate into the urban area, one must enter a rocky cavity
When leaving from the south side, the show doesn't diminish. Cuevas del Agua is a typical Asturian village, with the facades of the houses painted in bright colors, contrasting with some stone details left exposed. Additionally, there is a large number of well-preserved hórreos. These characteristic granaries from the northern Spain, built on pillars to prevent moisture and rodents from attacking the grain, are scattered throughout Cuevas. Some say it is the Asturian town with the most hórreos, although this is not an officially documented fact.
The fact is that both the flow of the mighty Sella River and some smaller streams led, from the Middle Ages onwards, to the establishment of different mills for grinding wheat. When corn from America arrived in the 15th century, this grain was incorporated into the milling process, and the number of mills – and therefore granaries – experienced its heyday.
In the village, there is a large number of granaries in good conservation condition
After leaving Cuevona, in a cold and humid environment, visitors come across a small elongated village with just three streets, but once again, with another surprise. The town has a train station. The railway has also overcome the rocky wall, although its access is unseen, through an artificial tunnel. There is also agrotourism and a couple of restaurants.
Thanks to the fame of being the only village in Spain accessed by crossing a cave, the curious visitors who come on weekends are numerous. That's why a parking lot has been set up at the entrance to La Cuevona. Panels there inform about the uniqueness of the access and the need to take care of it. Despite this, inscriptions can still be found from foolish individuals who use a punch to write that they passed through such a spectacular natural environment.
Entrance to the Cuevona in Cuevas del Agua, Ribadesella
Given the abundant influx of motor vehicles and the short distance from Ribadesella, it has become increasingly common to see tourists covering the route by bike or on foot, as there are well-signposted trails (such as the Path of the Mills) with a very manageable slope.
The Cuevas del Agua are located 9 kilometers from Ribadesella. However, the car journey is winding and takes about 20 minutes, progressing along the RS-2 and RS-3 roads.